Things to bear in mind when you transplant a tree in the landscape

Importing new trees

1. Carefully select the species. Is the tree going to grow to an appropriate size to accommodate the available space? Do you have sufficient root volume for the chosen tree to grow and mature in? Does the species have any bad habits (i.e. excessive leaf litter, fruit, allergenic flower production, surface orientated roots, etc)? Will the species tolerate local environmental and soil conditions? What level of winter sun or filtered light is required under or around the tree, in particular on the south side?

2. Choose your stock wisely. There is often a need for expediency in the establishment of the urban landscapes. This often results in using larger tree stock planted at denser spacing. This has impacts on the tree species available, i.e. a limited palette of tree species, and can also result in poor tree establishment, performance and increased management requirements. The larger a tree is at the time of planting, the longer it will take to recover from transplant shock and establish in the landscape. Generally speaking, the time it takes to recover from transplanting is between 6 - 12 months per 25 mm of trunk diameter. It is estimated to take a transplanted tree approximately 9 months per 25 mm trunk diameter to recover in Melbourne. The larger the tree the more watering and after-care maintenance is required. The bigger the tree the more resources required to move it and install it. A tree with a trunk diameter between 75 mm to 100 mm is the optimum size to plant in the urban landscape. A transplanted tree of this size will establish quickly and more easily, is large enough to have an impact in the landscape and survive urban abuse. Money that could be used to purchase larger tress may be better used to create more optimum planting systems, for example improved soil conditions, drainage, irrigation, and surface treatments. In regard to transplanted trees; “…the first year they sleep, the second year they creep, and the third year they leap.” (Urban, 2008).

3. Other things to keep in mind include;

• Buy only trees that have an appropriate crown to root volume ratio. Big trees in small containers are most likely to fail.
• Look for trees that have good overall form, structure, foliar cover, have not been excessively pruned or are not too “leggy”.

4. Plant it well. Keep these points in mind;

• Plant during the cooler months (April - September). Planting during the warmer months will put additional stress upon the tree.
• Dig your hole 3 times the diameter of the root ball.
• Dig you hole no deeper that the depth of the root ball. Plant the tree proud (up to ? the depth of the root ball) if planting on poorly drained soils.
• Ensure that the soil dug to create the hole is tilled and broken up well before returning it to the hole. Generally, most landscape soils require no further amelioration other than water and air.
• Lightly tamp the soil in around the root ball ensuring no air pockets or gaps are left between the root ball and the surrounding landscape soil.
• Raise a berm or soil wall approximately 50 - 100 mm high around the edge of the root ball to direct water to the root ball.
• Mulch around the tree to the edge of the planting pit and to a depth of 75 - 100 mm ensuring that mulch over the root ball does not exceed 30 mm in depth.
• Water the tree in once it has been planted. This will help settle the soil and eliminate gaps or air pockets.

5. Look after it. After all this effort to select and plant a tree, to neglect it following this will result in disappointing growth and possible failure of the tree.

• Initially in the first month or two, water the tree with similar amounts and at similar frequencies as was done in the nursery gradually weaning the tree off the intensive irrigation program that is generally applied in the nursery. Always ask your nursery person how much water and how often it was applied before leaving with your tree.
• Once the tree is weaned, apply water weekly (twice weekly during hot and/or windy weather) at rates of 2 - 4 litres per centimetre of trunk calliper. The lower amount on poorly drained sites and the higher amount on free draining soils. Reduce water frequencies during cool wet weather.
• Maintain the mulch levels around the tree.
• Keep weeds out of the planting area.

Transplanting existing trees

1. Only select a tree or a palm that is healthy, vigorous and has good form and structure. Trees that do not fit this description are more likely to fail and will require more intensive management following transplant.
2. Only tackle something that you feel confident in moving otherwise hire a professional. Remember, landscape soils weigh between 1.7 and 2.2 tonne per cubic meter.
3. General rule of thumb is that the root ball diameter should be 8 - 10 centimetres for every centimetre of trunk calliper. Less for palms.
4. Carefully bind the root ball with hessian or similar material to ensure it does not fall apart during the moving process.
5. Plant and maintain as discussed earlier.

Download a pritable pdf here

In October, Tree Logic was set the task of transplanting a large maturing Azarole Hawthorn (Crataegus azarolus) located in old Salvation Army site where it had been planted 60 years earlier, to Victory Park in the very heart of Traralgon which is literally across the road.

The tree is listed on the Victorian Heritage Register as being of state botanical significance as the only known example of this specie or hybrid in Victoria. With the help of Rob Bodenstaff (Arbor Centre, WA), BS Callow, Gyra Engineering and various local sub-contractors including P & D Cranes, Maffra Trenching and RTL Transport; Tree Logic set about process for transplanting the 40 tonne tree.

How we did it

A root ball of over 5 meters in diameter was carefully excavated, roots were trimmed and the ball framed. A steel raft frame was constructed under the tree so that it may be lifted with a crane and placed on a transport vehicle. The base lift method of transplant was chosen over the more common practice of pin lifting, to reduce damage to the tree and to take a much larger root ball. Once lifted on to transport the tree was driven across the Princess Highway into Victory Park. The tree was planted proud of existing site grade to avoid any potential water logging of the root ball, was mulched and the site cleaned up.

The job was completed within 5 days. LaTrobe City Council will look after the tree for the next 2 - 5 years until it becomes re-established in the landscape. Parks and Gardens staff lead by Mick Cantwell were trained by Tree Logic in the nuances of managing and maintaining the tree over this critical period and we will be dropping in from time to time to see how the tree fares. Early indications are that it’s a happy team at Hawthorn.

Lee Carr Tree Logic’s Office Manager and Wayne Bloxidge Team Leader Outdoor Services from Tree Logic recently attended the 9th National Street Tree Symposium in September joining others passionate about sustainability practices in their industry.
A big thank you to everyone who supported the Tree Logic Stand at the Symposium.

With increased crowding within urban sprawl, the need for greater emphasis on wise use of water and reduced water use.
Street verges becoming the future water catchment areas by directing water runoff into nature strips rather than into the stormwater systems. Use this water for street tree production/improvements before it becomes wasted/lost to our bays and oceans.
Greater emphasis on species selection. Field demonstrations showed an interesting look at root development of elms and native gums that may improve the tree selection process. Fine matted roots to the canopy edge on elms and large far reaching roots on gum trees.
Much broader and improved look at risk assessment of mature trees and trees in general in urban settings. Greater management of targets and tree crown management rather than a narrow focus on tree removals. Especially when considering cavity and hollow defects.

The long-awaited release of the newly registered Bayer SilvaShield® Injectable Tree Insecticide has arrived.

Current practice has many applicators using non-registered products such as Confidor® to undertake trunk injections.  Confidor was formulated as a soil drench and while some control may be achieved, there are chemicals in Confidor that actually inhibit uptake through the tree’s vascular system and reduce the effectiveness of any control.

Better Results
Bayer’s SilvaShield is a specifically formulated trunk injectable that has been in testing for some time. If you are an owner of trees that are likely to receive trunk injection as a control option this season, you should specify that SilvaShield is to be used to maximize your tree management spending.

Tree Logic offer a range of trunk injection equipment to allow applicators to make the best use of SilvaShield with the Arborjet (US) product range now available in our online store.

Refillable Injectors Coming Soon
Tree Logic has also been working on developing a small low-cost refillable trunk injector that will be perfect for the application of SilvaShield.  These small refillable injectors are in the testing stage now and are likely to be available in the next few weeks, Stay Tuned!!

At present, Harbour Esplanade is only partially complete. The roadway south of Bourke Street is yet to be developed and parts of the Victoria Harbour waterfront remain at the original elevated level with the old wharf structures.  A functional review undertaken by VicUrban identified several issues that require consideration, including lack of weather protection and confusion between pedestrian, cyclist and tram routes.

VicUrban appointed a team of consultants lead by a joint venture between Black Kosloff Knott and Taylor Cullity Lethlean (BKK/TCL) to develop concept designs for Harbour Esplanade.
Tree Logic is working as a sub-consultant to BKK/TCL providing arboricultural information to the areas of tree selection, tree planting systems complimentary to Water Sensitive Urban Design (WSUD), tree stock assessment and procurement, and tree maintenance scheduling.
The project area comprises 700 metres of public space between Docklands Drive to the north and Bourke Street (adjacent to Docklands Park) to the south.

Hairy Wattle or Downy Wattle (Acacia pubescens) has become the 1000th seed sample to be sent to the Millennium Seed bank project at the Royal Botanic Gardens, Kew UK.

The Millennium Seed Bank Project (MSBP) is the largest ex situ conservation project ever conceived. The Royal Botanic Gardens, Kew and its partners will have banked seed from 10% of the world’s wild plant
species by the end of the decade. These will not be just any plants, but will include the rarest, most threatened and most useful species known to man.

The Millennium Seed Bank Project seeks to develop a global seed conservation network, capable of safeguarding wild plant species. This will make direct contributions to national and global conservation/development programs, and will make a big contribution to meeting the objectives of the
Convention on Biological Diversity (CBD). The current project will run until 2010.

Acacia pubescens

A recent letter from Peter has been answered by Stephen Frank at Tree Logic and so we include here as advise to those with similar problems.

Hi
My name is Peter I have a problem with my maple tree in the back yard.
Can you help me with a grub that seems to be eating the crotches and trunk of this Acer rubrums.
It is a young tree.
If I send some photos can you please give me a consultation? Possibly a way to save the tree from getting worse as we love the tree I am happy to pay you for your time
Regards
Peter

Hello Peter,
Indeed your Red Maple has a problem, and to be honest one that can not be solved by any arboricultural treatment I am aware of.
Judging from the photo accompanying your email, the pest has been present for some time and extent of damage is too much. It would appear that ~50% of the circumference of the stem has been affected.
Control of borer in trees is very difficult.  Most borers attack trees weakened by drought, mechanical injury, recent transplants, poor soils or root systems. The most important prevention of borers is keeping trees healthy through proper management (primarily watering, which again can be difficult under current drought conditions).  The most common way to control borers, in addition to proper tree maintenance, is chemical control.  However, borers live inside trees, and treating them with insecticides is difficult if not impossible, and it comes down to timing of treatment.  The best time to control borers is when adult are laying eggs on or under bark, which is difficult to monitor in a domestic situation.  Pheromone traps, available for some borer species, help determine if adults are present. Trunk sprays can be effective when borers are in the early larvae stage before they enter the tree.  I reiterate that the extent of damage with your tree suggests that the tree is past chemical treatment.  I have heard people using a fine wire to poke into the tunnels created by the borers in the hope of skewing one.
I would suggest you remove the tree (as distasteful as it sounds) and replace it with a new one.  Properly plant species that are well adapted to your location and provide them with proper care.  Avoid pruning from spring through summer when adults are active. Protect trees from injury. Remove and dispose of dying limbs and dead trees. Do not pile fresh-cut wood near trees.
I hope this helps.
Sincerely,
Stephen Frank

Recently published research in the application of carbohydrates (sucrose) in root drenches has shown considerable promise in improving general plant health whilst limiting the effects of environmental stresses and even herbicide damage. Peer reviewed and published research on field trials conducted on containerised plants, young transplanted and established mature trees demonstrated that carbohydrate treatments applied at specific rates resulted in a decrease in time taken for the initiation of new roots, an increase in the number of roots initiated and improved root elongation rates.
More traditional forms of soil improvement treatments generally contain macro and micronutrients and encourage beneficial microbial activity which in turn helps release nutrients in the soil for plant uptake. These assimilates are then transported to the crown of the plant and used in the photosynthetic process to generate carbohydrates required for root growth. By providing sucrose at specific rates in and around the root zone of the plant, the carbohydrates required for root growth are immediately available thus limiting the plants reliance on the crown to provide these assimilates. This can be particularly useful in circumstances where the plants crown may have decreased foliage levels, small and/or chlorotic leaves and which may not have the capacity to produce sufficient carbohydrates for root growth.
Carbohydrates are also known to stimulate beneficial soil microbial and fungal rhizosphere that assist in plant nutrient uptake. In addition, the use of surfactants in carbohydrate drenches can improve irrigation performance and reduce water requirements. Surfactants aid in the wetting and movement of water in media and landscape soils. These are biodegradable detergent-like products that work by lowering the surface tension of water so that wetting is uniform and effective. If media wetting is not uniform, irrigation water tends to move through the larger pores in the media where it is subject to downward gravitational forces. This in turn leads to increase leaching and reduced irrigation efficiency. By improving penetration, wetting, and water movement, media surfactants can increase the effective wetting area thereby increasing irrigation efficiency.
Carbohydrate and surfactant drenches are applied through soil injection techniques that deliver the material at a depth of approximately 150 - 200mm. This is done to reduce the loss of material through natural evaporation and to better target the root system of the subject plant. Treatments shallower than this could result in other plants (particularly turf) drawing up the sucrose before the target plant has a chance to absorb it.
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Planting trees is an excellent way to provide a screen that will modify or hide the view of adjacent buildings, walls, driveways, parking areas, overhead utilities/fixtures or other unsightly areas. Living screens are also becoming more important since house sizes get larger and taller and house blocks becoming smaller.
Using trees as living screens can easily enhance living and working open spaces. They tend to be more visually appealing and enhance environmental conditions. Screening can be used to define an area, modify views, create privacy, block wind, filter light, and direct traffic flow. A living screen can also be used to separate or define areas with different uses.
Trees planted in the long, narrow corridors between buildings, can break up or reduce wind tunnelling. Buildings with screen trees planted on the prevailing wind side can benefit from energy savings.
Before selecting trees for screening, first determine the screen’s purpose, whether functional or environmental.
Choosing a Suitable Screen
Before selecting any tree, consider characteristics that may change as the tree grows. A little research can prevent the cost and trouble of removing a tree that has become unsuitable for the place where it was planted. A tree’s special characteristics and tolerance of harsh growing conditions determine its suitability for a particular situation.
You need to establish;

How high and dense you need the screen to be and how quickly you need it to do the job.

What are the growing conditions like and how adjacent are buildings and other hard surfaces?
The width of the screen may also be an issue, particularly if planted between houses, or adjacent to fences and pathways. Plants that develop broader canopies may require more, on-going pruning maintenance. Healthy plants need a substantial root system to grow. Provide appropriate below ground space to sustain trees and enable them to meet aesthetic and design expectations. A wider planter space will also allow greater choice of species. If the space is too narrow, climbers or non-living screens may be more suitable than trees.
Give careful consideration to the following factors before selecting a screening tree.

Size at maturity
Determine mature tree characteristics and decide whether these characteristics will be suitable for the planting site when the tree reaches its ultimate height and spread. Select trees that will not grow too big to cause damage to surrounding structures like fences, buildings and driveways. In narrow areas or in beds between buildings and streets, a tree with a small canopy and limited root spread is preferable.
Canopy form and texture
Choose trees with columnar or fastigiate forms (Upright branching, narrow) for restricted/narrow areas, row plantings, or against tall buildings. When planted in rows, trees with a narrow, columnar canopy effectively block an unsightly view, define areas, and act as a barrier. They can be planted close to fences and buildings without hanging over into other areas and can give a building a formal or classical appearance.
Trees with round or pyramidal canopies are effective for areas that have increased root area and adequate overhead canopy area.
Multi-branched trees with large leaves or mass production of small leaves are suitable trees for screens. Species should also be tolerant of pruning. Pruning may be used to increase the density of many screening plants, and is recommended in the management of screens, particularly fast growing species.
Deciduous vs. evergreen screening
For seasonal screening, select deciduous trees. Deciduous trees will provide shade during the summer, but will allow more light in during the winter.
Evergreen trees provide more permanent screening, however, consider how dark an area is during the winter months if you use a dense evergreen screen.
Suitable species
Many species of trees, shrubs and climbers make excellent screens. Usually mass plantings of the same species are used, although screens may use a mix of different plants.
Conifers
Callitris rhomboidea (Port jackson Pine, Oyster Bay Pine) Australian native conifer. Narrow large shrub to small tree to 6m tall. Good drought tolerance.
Chamaecyparis lawsoniana (Lawson’s Cypress varieties) Conical to columnar tree. Height will vary dependent on variety.
Chamaecyparis obtusa ‘Crippsii’ (Golden Hinoke Cypress). Conical small tree, 3-6m.
Cupressus glabra ‘Hodginsii’ (Blue Arizona Cypress). Compact, columnar tree to 10m.
Cupressus sempervirens ‘Totem’ (Italian Cypress var.). Upright columnar tree 10-15m.
Cupressus torulosa (Bhutan Cypress). Medium to large tree with pyramidal to conical form.
Juniperus chinensis ‘Spartan’ (Chinese Juniper var.). Tall, narrowly conical tree to 6m.
Thuja orientalis (Bookleaf Cypress varieties). Conical to ovoid small trees and shrubs. Height will vary dependent on variety.
Thuja plicata ‘Fastigiata’ (Western Red Cedar). Tall columnar to conical tree 15-20m.
Australian native trees
Acmena smithii var. minor (Lilly Pilly). Small tree, bronzy new growth 3-6m
Acmena smithii ‘Hot Flush’ (Lilly Pilly var.) Up to 3m with moderate growth habit and reddish new growth.
Acmena smithii ‘Sublime’ ?(Lilly Pilly var.). Small tree large shrub with lime green new growth. Up to 3-5m
Callistemon viminalis ‘Hannah Ray’ (Weeping Bottlebrush var.). Small tree, large shrub 3-4m tall with pendulous branches.
The following are varieties of Scrub Cherry (Syzygium australe).
Syzygium australe ‘Aussie Southern’ 3-4m
Syzygium australe ‘Elite’ 3-5m
Syzygium australe ‘Pinnacle’?Very narrow habit 3-5m
Syzygium ‘Aussie Northern’ Compact to 4-5m
Exotic broadleaf
Acer campestre (Hedge Maple) Deciduous medium tree 8-10m. Use varieties ‘Queen Elizabeth’ or ‘Elsrijk’
Camellia sasanqua (Sasanqua Camellia). Recommend varieties; ‘Edna Butler’, ‘Hiryu’, ‘Jennifer Susan’, ‘Plantation Pink’, and ‘Snowcloud’.
Gleditsia triacanthos var. inermis ‘Elegantissima’ (Thornless Honeylocust var.) 3-4m
Photinia x fraseri (Fraser Photinia). Large shrub to small tree with burgundy-red new foliage which contrasts nicely against the dark green mature foliage, 4-5m.
Pittosporum tenuifolium ‘Screen Master’ Fast growing plant, 4-5m
Prunus cerasifera ‘Oakville Crimson Spire’ ?Upright form of purple leaved flowering plum. Up to 6m.
Pyrus calleryana ‘Capital’ (Callery Pear var.) Deciduous, columnar tree to 12m.
Bamboos (Clumping varieties)
Bambusa textilis (Slender Weaver) - 10m
Bambusa textilis ‘Gracilis’ - 6m
Bambusa eutuldoides var. viridi vittata (China Gold) - 6m
Bambusa multiplex var. ‘Alphonse Karr’ (Alphonse Karr) - 4m
References
Bulleen Art and Garden 2008, Bulleen Art and Garden, Bulleen, Victoria, viewed 6th May 2008.
Spencer, R. (1995) Horticultural flora of south-eastern Australia, Volume 1, Fern, Conifers and their Allies. University of New South Wales Press.
Virginia Cooperative Extension. 2008, Trees for Problem Landscape Sites -Screening, viewed 6th May 2008.

Click to download fact sheet as pdf

Fertilising trees refers to the practice of adding supplemental nutrients (chemical elements) required for normal growth and development.
You can’t ” feed” a tree, since trees produce their own sugar via photosynthesis, for which they use nutrients as part of the process.
A reasonably fertile soil will have enough nutrients to satisfy the requirements of growth on most established trees. Trees adjust their growth and development rates to the level of nutrients present in the soil, and will usually grow vigourously as long as the roots can continue to grow.
In nature, trees get nutrients from air, recycled organic matter, beneficial microbes, and soil minerals. In urban settings, the recycling of organic matter is often reduced, beneficial microbes may be minimal, and some minerals can be unavailable be- cause of the soil pH.
Lack of water and organic matter, and soil compaction often limit growth of urban trees much more than nutrient levels.
Infertile soils are most common in new building areas, both commercial and residential, where the ‘natural’ soil has been altered. Altered soils display poor physical and chemical properties for tree and shrub growth. Soil modifications, where required, along with proper fertilisation may improve nutrient uptake of plants.
Fertilising a tree can improve growth; however, if fertiliser is not applied wisely, it may adversely affect the tree. Mature trees making satisfactory growth may not require fertilisation.
Adding fertiliser, especially nitrogen, around stressed or root damaged trees can be harmful unless you have determined that the stress is due to nutrient deficiency.
Harm can occur when a tree in decline with low energy reserves attempts to incorporate nitrogen into cell components.
Since this process requires energy expenditure, reserves can be lowered further. This could lead to a further decline in health as trees with low energy reserves have reduced ability to deal with the effects of injury and pests.

Click to download the fact sheet pdf